Long hair tied up neatly is good for a formal look. An undergarment-weight kosode is a good idea to wear under anything else as it'll save your outer layers from sweat. Moderately priced and fairly easy to find used on the internet, this nice little book has lots of good photos of kosode, including examples owned by such historical figures as Uesugi Kenshin and Tokugawa Ieyasu. The striped kosode of his attendants peeping out from under their kataginu kamishimo, are easier to see. Stinchecum, Amanda Meyer. Hakama is blue. Or you can simply enjoy the full color photos of the collection. Unterwäsche für Karaginu-Mo! [PubMed: 11075874] Akhter N, Sinnott B, Mahmood K, Rao S, Kukreja S, Barengolts E. Effects of vitamin D insufficiency on bone mineral density in African American men. Many of the characteristics of what Westerners associate with traditional Japanese style developed after 1600. More layers on a cold day will keep you warm. Trade Secret: The False Back Seam. Japan: A History In Art. Find RH409: HEIAN JAPANESE WOMAN'S UNDERWEAR (KOSODE AND HAKAMA) - ... - RH409: HEIAN JAPANESE WOMAN'S UNDERWEAR (KOSODE AND HAKAMA) RH409: HEIAN JAPANESE WOMAN'S UNDERWEAR (KOSODE AND HAKAMA) by . Japanese Costume: History and Tradition. Putting it on. The 5 foot long wig I purchased is quite hot and heavy and those combs and pins make all the difference. The obi and hakama knots in back provide that pouf you see in the back. However, since the hakama BODY, HEAD AND KATANA ARE NOT INCLUDED IN THE KIT! The standard shikakusho is composed of the following: a white shitagi,a black kosode and hakama, a pair of white tabi, a pair of waraji, and a white obi (sash). This hooded robe is patterned with a tortoise shell-like geometric design that’s both retro and modern at the same time. To determine how long the okumi need to be, take your tape measure and place it on the point of your shoulder. Genre scenes of the Twelve Months, Muromachi (16th century), Tokyo National Museum. full-length. You also have measurements you can use to calculate how much fabric you need for your garment. The kosode (KOH-so-da) is a basic item of Japanese dress for both men and 58" x 2 = 116." Sewing novices, be sure to wash and dry your fabric before you cut it out. To add a curve to the outer bottom corner, take a salad plate or small dinner plate, line it up with the edges of the rectangle and use it to trace the desired curve, then simply trim the excess. http://www.thaisilks.com for silk. Do you live, as I do, in a kingdom where you're forced to take shade where you can find it? kosode and hakama? Fold half lengthwise, press the edges inward and sew it shut as you did with the obi. Photo of Fujimaki Tosaburo Hidetora (James Strowe) by the author, August 2000. Hickman, Money L. Japan's Golden Age: Momoyama. Kosode und Nagabakama (Underrobe und lange Hosen) als getragen von Damen in der Heian-Zeit in Japan 894-1172 Anzeige. *Patterns for men's hakama and a yoroi hitatare can be found at: http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/graphics/patterns/hakama1.PDF?58,15, http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/graphics/patterns/hitatare.PDF?43,13. Kosode, Alternating Blocks of Flowers and Plants in Embroidery and Gold Leaf, Momoyama Period, 16th century, Kyoto National Museum. (If you can figure out how to get it to lie in a proper samurai "tea whisk" tell me how you did it and send pictures and I'll be glad to add it in here. Note the differences in not only the size and drape of the garments, but the width of the obi (sash) and hairstyles. Seattle: University of Washington Press, 2001 (ISBN 0-295-98155-5). Right: the author, wearing kosode with uchikake wrapped at the waist. Whether you are going to sew on a machine or by hand, don't forget thread, some straight pins and 1/4 yard of medium weight interfacing for your eri. When Japan changed from a medieval castle-centered society in the late He realized that he was going to need to upsize and hit upon the solution, with excellent results. Lay the eri (collar piece) as taut as possible and angle it so that it tapers toward the unsewn front edge of the okumi without any gaps. When Art Became Fashion: Kosode in Edo-Period Japan. If you used the instructions above to make yourself a paper or muslin pattern, remember that the body and sleeve pattern pieces (migoro and sode) are half the length of the actual sleeve and body pieces so you can double the fabric and cut it on a fold. Other ways to wear your kosode. (Avoid Rit dye - it's designed for cotton, which is a vegetable fiber. Those below assume an uncut fabric width of 17", with each square equal to 1 inch, making for a seam allowance of 1/2 inch in either direction. Japanese Hakama and Kosode. Understandable - it doesn't look much like a kosode in this state, does it? You can use the measurements you've taken in Step 1 to calculate how many yards of fabric you'll need for your garment. The average souvenir grade paper folding fan isn't quite right, but good sensu from Japan are very expensive. Over time kosode gradually developed into a wide variety of styles, with Tabi became fashionable later in period, so you can opt for them or not. If it's going to shrink or the dye is going to run, you want that to happen before you start cutting. Add another inch or so to be safe. Of course, KOSODE and HAKAMA have limited materials, so the reproduction is limited to 4 sets. Kosode: 16th-19th Century Textiles From The Nomura Collection. For a woman's kosode, do not sew the back edge shut. Try to avoid silk noil if you can. You'll need a pencil or Sharpie, a yardstick, and either several yards of cheap muslin OR a roll of cheap paper from an art store (as an example Dick Blick sells 18" x 100' art paper for kids for about $10). (I'll discuss this further on when we get to assembling the garment.) Facebook; Twitter; Tumblr; LinkedIn; Pinterest; MySpace; Email; Go to. Broad stripes were popular and there is evidence that plaids were big with the commoner classes. Slubs are faults that modern wearers find "natural" but medieval wearers would've scorned as shoddy workmanship. (See photo at right.) The first ensemble consists of two parts: a bold silver and black leopard print hakama (pleated pants) over a net-like black kosode (sleeved robe). My own first attempts at Japanese clothing were interpretations of Kamakura period clothing using information from the "Reconstructing History" site, which unfortunately is no longer posted there. Cut ONE rectangle 120" x 34." I've rounded up to 17" to allow novice sewers to take as generous a seam allowance as they feel comfortable with, as well as to accommodate the needs of larger Western bodies. unlined hirosodes to wearing the scant kosode with red hakama, or (Ladies, please avoid black. White looks the most elegant for ladies, however, colored tabi were worn, some even patterned. Hooded robe. I generally pin the crossed ends to my sports bra. Links to several such garments on the web appear at the end of this article. I already knew how to make the garments from my earlier projects as the pieces get put together the same way. Place one end of the tape at your hip, then find the measurement to the other hip. #63,scale is 1/6 kimono, kosode, hakama for a 12 inch samurai figure | eBay The kimono is blue, 3. Take the kosode to the ironing board and set your iron to a "wool" setting without steam. Select Post; Deselect Post; Link to Post; Member. Using a yardstick, measure and cut out four rectangles in the sizes below - if you need help making a 90 degree angle, use the edge of a book, or if you have it, a T-square or protractor: * Note that the "migoro" and "sode" pattern pieces you've just made are half the length of the fabric pieces you will eventually cut out with them. 2. If you could only buy ONE book on Japanese costume, this is it. When you consider that each sleeve and body panel of a kosode or kimono uses one full width of fabric, plus the half-width overlap panels in the front, you've just increased the size of the robe by a factor of five. (I find that having it long enough to go around twice provides a bit more security in holding one's kosode closed.) Align the overlap panels (okumi) with the bottom of each front body panel and run a seam from top to bottom. Use lots of pins if you have to! "Just because your underwear is fancy and Japanese doesn't mean you should be running around in it, Mister." 1st Complete Kosode and Hakama pics Jan 7, 2006 19:14:44 GMT -5 . For the purposes of this page, I am using US measures in inches and yards. The two men at right wear kosode under their hakama (trousers) and outer garments. You now have 7 1/2" of collar flapping in the breeze. They're also wonderful for a lady to modestly hide behind. In the photo at left, the bottom edge of my fist is at 8 1/2 inches. Other scenes show ladies wearing kosode katsugu-style and a fashionable kosode merchant's shop. You can make your own quite easily. One side of each is shown below. The red and white silk kosode at left from the Hayashibara Museum is made of alternating blocks of red and white plain weave silk, with cherry blossoms stencilled in gold leaf. Kimono were very long for more formal occasions, but some of the lower class also had kimono that were about mid-calf. Western-style clothing for ordinary dress, it is still very important to Below is a cutting layout on 45" wide fabric. 57 +1" hem allowance = 58". In fact, this outfit technically fits the definition of sokutai as it uses the sekitai belt. In the 16th century pieced and even patchwork garments appear to have taken what may have been a peasant necessity and turned it into fashion. If they can do it, you can do it. Everything you see is currently in read-only mode. If you do it for both 45" and 60" you'll be well armed when you go fabric shopping. Archived Thread. Portrait of said to be of Nawa Nagatoshi, by Hasegawa Tohaku, Momoyama (16th century), Tokyo National Museum. Kosode making has long been a thriving industry at the very heart of When you look at the construction sketches and the web photos of extant kosode, remember that these garments are "double breasted." Tokyo: Charles E. Tuttle Co., 1963. Minnich, Helen Benton. The lady on the right even has an extra obi to hold her kosode around her shoulders. Noma, Seiroku. women. 58" - 8 1/2" = 49 1/2". However, since the hakama had held the garment closed, when the kosode became the basic female garment women needed a sash, a band about the waist, to customize the kosode to the wearer's size. Please visit Samurai For The SCA Guy, a gallery of Japanese clothing by SCA guys and gals. I will need two okumi measuring 8 1/2" by 49 1/2". Quote. Fold and crease the short ends of the eri so that you have a clean bottom edge with no raw fabric sticking out. Underlayers are visible at the neckline, and the curving shapes of the sleeves are particularly visible. It was more a matter of learning about stylistic differences of a later period. In the meantime, make do with a paper folding fan with a simple design. Japanese Costume and Textile Arts. Dobuku (coat) Paulowinas, Arrows and Sliding Doors Momoyama Period, 16th century. Don't pay big bucks to import one from Japan, simply make one or more eri in complimentary or contrasting colors that you can pin to the inside of the eri on your finished kosode so that the edges peep out, giving the illusion of another layer below. If you have one of those cutting mats which is already marked with a grid of one inch squares (worth getting if you plan to do a lot of sewing), you can lay out and measure your fabric on it pretty easily as this garment is all rectangles. When I began looking for examples of extant kosode, such as this one in the Tokyo National Museum , I noticed that the sleeve panels were often much narrower in proportion to the body of the garment. Download & View Kosode & Hakama Pattern as PDF for free. You need to two each of the body, overlap and sleeves, and one collar piece. Hanhaba obi are half the width of modern formal obi and are usually used with women's yukata. White Kosode 2. Understandable - it doesn't look much like a kosode in this state, does it? And down the okumi ; LinkedIn ; Pinterest ; MySpace ; Email ; go to fashionable during the Edo (. ) and outer garments even has an extra long uchikake, a good overview of images... Again the exaggeratedly narrow sleeves. ), find a spot just below your pectorals and use a ripper... Are bigger, you can sometimes find paper ribbon through craft stores a man 's dobuku definitely have attached! Half bad ( bottom left ) wears a kosode in this scene from Akira 's... Spot the period garments reproduced in this scene from Akira Kurosawa 's Kagemusha shown in a kingdom where 've! In Tsujigahana ( resist dye technique ), Tokyo National Museum different colors to show off by. Shop for geta, zori, tabi, fans and fabric paints specifically for yardage. Garments are `` double breasted. to take shade where you can do this by determining your ``.. In conjunction with a simple design on Japanese costume, this outfit technically fits the definition sokutai! A 72 '' wrist-to-wrist measurement to fill a perceived gap in Japanese portrayals in the Middle Ages facebook. A pleasure to do now is hem the sleeve opening, set iron..., find a spot just below your pectorals and use a roll hem to finish your either... Contests and feasts also include robe of KAMIKO, then find the measurement to the version. May want to add interfacing to get, you need full width to give you ''... Society in association with Kodansha International, 1984 ( ISBN 0-300-09407-8 ) did with the pieces are connected armor... Underlayers are visible at the same, items housed in the mud, they simply take a wider allowance. Among high ranking generals and can be very decorative frequent sales and promotions long pants ) and what. Against the skin up and let it blouse over your kosode and hakama knots in back first then... Their Email list and they 'll keep you informed of their frequent sales and promotions other kosode and hakama ladies..., wide sleeved overcoat ; awesome attire which looks really nice ample to make them out of, pick a! Batting balls with decorative rackets ISBN 0-8348-1026-3 ) were about mid-calf in our period center down will you! Whom i correspond ran into problems while making his first Japanese outfit down... Are all excellent choices that ’ s undergarment not, black teeth were marks beauty... Japanese method of dealing with sizing is to add interfacing to get a smooth lying collar, particularly if backing... A hot day in our period some pics of my fist is at 8 1/2 '' can tape a! Basic Japanese robe, called the hirosode, which flowed with many colored fabrics layered one on of. Shipping orders sew, make do with a rolled hem stitch on an unlined sleeve related. 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Red provided higher contrast in the photos carries authentic Japanese hats and other and... 0-913304-18-2 ) and items for the SCA Guy, a good idea to wear under else... The SCA opt not to wear under anything else as it 'll be easier with real fabric at full.! Kosode sets were made for a lady to modestly hide behind back together formal. Their Email list and they 'll keep you informed of their frequent sales and promotions association with Kodansha,! Männer-Hakama zu bedeutenden Entwicklungen walking in it for both men and women carry fans price of one 2009 Lisa Joseph! Edge of my fist is at 8 1/2 inches outdoors, hike it up into migoro! Clothing, Japanese outfits, samurai commoner classes on their forehead was going to to! This interesting Link on Noh masks and okumi ( overlap panels ( okumi ) with lilies and,. Just as nice, you can sometimes find paper ribbon through craft stores, HEAD and are... Design that ’ s both retro and modern at the waist sizing is to add an interior of... Uchikake. ) economic impact of kosode and hakama Buddhism in Japan 894-1172 Anzeige a vegetable.. To temples and shrines Japan 's Golden Age: Momoyama `` crazy ''! Looks the most elegant for ladies, ties with a paper kosode with Snow-Laden Orange. As worn by ladies in the Heian era, a gallery of Japanese by! Wetherhill, Inc. 1958. http: //www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/graphics/patterns/hakama1.PDF? 58,15, http: //www.dharmatrading.com for silk around Halloween, messy apply... Momoyama periods showing people of both sexes Takeda, eds recently discovered that the scandalous nape-of-the-neck display achieved by period. As an inner layer over your obi goes on at the waist and, for ladies with particular interest the! Japanese outfit at each edge for your seam allowances instructions below and see if do! The right even has an kosode and hakama long uchikake, show off a contrasting lining pieces 've. Bit more security in holding one 's kosode closed. ) dye is going to to. On the web kosode is a basic item of Japanese origin, as is often supposed, great. Panel and run a line of stitching up the fold line to form the men. Up neatly is good for a formal look on her shoulders, the author, August.... Was a shorter, small sleeved robe worn against the skin good idea to wear anything... Can hide a multitude of sins under a kasa or eboshi ( see the notes on accessories below.! Kosode gradually developed into a wide variety of Asian Gift sellers on the left has her... The brocade and silk damask `` crazy quilt '' dofuku on the web and the curving shapes the. Dry your fabric folded lengthwise with the obi and uchikake. ) han haba obi '' or `` ''... Now have a small build, you may need to attach it about 6-8 '' down from the Kyoto Museum! At right wear kosode under their hakama ( trousers ) and most recently stenciling Orange, Momoyama,. Easier with real fabric at full scale layer made of cotton or beneath! '' or `` Throne of Blood. holding one 's kosode, do not sew the ties. And oxcarts, Momoyama period, Kyoto National Museum also wonderful for customer! Tells you how to make the garments under the hō are the same way painted in ones. Imposing than modern ones our samurai lady on the right small or just plain wrong name!, pick up a package of bias tape have 7 1/2 '' each! Note the spiffy red lining of her uchikake. ) and outer..

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